Tuesday 12 March 2013

CAG on museums: Pacific fashion in the museum

© 2012 London Pacific Fashion Ltd

Last year while working at the British Museum, I met some Pacific fashion designers and artists. They came to the stores to look at Samoan and New Zealand textiles, ornaments, and jewelry, as the designers were there for the London Pacific Fashion Show in October 2012. The designers Lindah Lepou (Samoa), Rosanna Raymond (Samoa), and Jeanine Clarkin (New Zealand) made collections for the show that reflected their Pacific heritage, but also highlighted the contemporary artistry that is thriving in Pacific communities.

Jeanine Clarkin design; © 2012 London Pacific Fashion Ltd

The reason for visiting the BM collections was to see the kind of work that the designers’ ancestors made, and to connect with genealogical inspirations for their designs today. Many of the patterns and styles at the show were reminiscent of the kinds of patterns seen on tapa cloth, and the intricate weaving found on Maori cloaks from the 18th and 19th century. 

© 2012 London Pacific Fashion Ltd

Lindah Lepou gives a really interesting insight into the motivation behind these designs in the video below. She explains how seeing her great-grandmother in a book making tapa inspired her to create a dress as an homage. She talks about her genealogy and the kind of inspiration it engenders in her production of a wedding dress for Te Papa Tongarewa Museum.


In the age of artistic collaborations in the museum, I think it’s especially important to highlight the ongoing connection between Pacific fashion and Pacific artists who are interested in working with museums and their collections.

Museums collecting contemporary Pacific fashion is not occurring on such a large scale, but it is very important. Many fashion themes such as structural shapes and cultural symbolism displayed in contemporary pieces serve as a very relevant response to understanding Pacific cultures from a sense of self-representation. Fashion collections themselves have gained more significance since the 20th Century, and it would be wonderful to see further collecting put on the museum agenda.

For upcoming Pacific Fashion events please take a look at the LPFS website- http://www.londonpacificfashion.org/.

Pacific Sisters, New Zealand (manufacturer);
Rosanna Raymond (designer).
Outfit purchased by National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne



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