© 2012 London Pacific Fashion Ltd |
Last year while working at the British Museum, I met some
Pacific fashion designers and artists. They came to the stores to look at
Samoan and New Zealand textiles, ornaments, and jewelry, as the designers were
there for the London Pacific Fashion Show in October 2012. The designers Lindah
Lepou (Samoa), Rosanna Raymond (Samoa), and Jeanine Clarkin (New Zealand) made
collections for the show that reflected their Pacific heritage, but also
highlighted the contemporary artistry that is thriving in Pacific communities.
Jeanine Clarkin design; © 2012 London Pacific Fashion Ltd |
The reason for visiting the BM collections was to see the
kind of work that the designers’ ancestors made, and to connect with genealogical inspirations for their designs today. Many of the patterns and styles at the
show were reminiscent of the kinds of patterns seen on tapa cloth, and the
intricate weaving found on Maori cloaks from the 18th and 19th
century.
© 2012 London Pacific Fashion Ltd |
Lindah Lepou gives a really interesting insight into the
motivation behind these designs in the video below. She explains how seeing her
great-grandmother in a book making tapa
inspired her to create a dress as an homage. She talks
about her genealogy and the kind of inspiration it engenders in her production
of a wedding dress for Te Papa Tongarewa Museum.
In the age of artistic collaborations in the museum, I think
it’s especially important to highlight the ongoing connection between Pacific
fashion and Pacific artists who are interested in working with museums and their collections.
Museums collecting contemporary Pacific fashion is not occurring on such a large scale, but it is very important. Many fashion themes such as structural shapes and cultural symbolism displayed in contemporary pieces serve as a very relevant response to understanding Pacific cultures from a sense of self-representation. Fashion collections themselves have gained more significance since the 20th Century, and it would be wonderful to see further collecting put on the museum agenda.
For upcoming Pacific Fashion events please take a look at the LPFS website- http://www.londonpacificfashion.org/.
Pacific Sisters, New Zealand (manufacturer); Rosanna Raymond (designer). Outfit purchased by National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne |
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